215-887-7500

Join us for Kentucky Derby Day: Run for the Roses this Saturday, May 5th 2012

Run for the Roses: Save 20% on all Roses (One Day Only)

Winning Horse Raffle: Enter to win a $25 Primex Gift Card

• Choose the winning horse for the 138th Kentucky Derby and receive a $25 Primex Gift Card.
• No Purchase Necessary.
• One Entry per Person. Multiple entries will be disqualified. Thank you for your cooperation.
• Winners will be notified on Monday, May 7th.

Best Derby Day Hat Contest: Enter to win a $25 Primex Gift Card

• Visit the main store to have your picture taken in your Derby finest.
• Winner will be chosen on Facebook by popular vote http://www.facebook.com/primexgardencenter
• Be sure to tell your friends to vote for you!
• Voting will end on Thursday May 12th at 8am.

There are many benefits to growing fruits and vegetables in raised garden beds, it’s no wonder they have become so popular. Let’s go over the advantages of gardening in raised beds.  Better Drainage: This is great news for those of you dealing with heavy clay, rocky or urban soils. You don’t even need to have soil; raised beds can be placed on top of concrete for those of you without a yard. Higher Yields: Because you are filling your beds with high quality soil and organic matter, your plant’s roots will have lots of space to spread out.  Happy roots = Happy plants. Raised bed gardening forgoes traditional row planting and favors intensive planting or the popular ‘square foot’ method. Plants are grown ‘shoulder to shoulder’ so you can fit more vegetables in a small space.  See the diagram below for a visual explanation. Lower Maintenance: This is what draws most folks to raised bed gardening.  Because the garden is raised, you will have less bending to do.  You could opt for an Elevated Garden Bed (see image below), raised 34” off the ground, which requires no bending or stooping and is wheel chair accessible.  Talk about gardening for everyone.  Less weeding?  Yes it’s true; since plants are grown close together there is little space for weeds to pop up.  Raised beds also require less tilling and turning because the soil is not becoming compacted by foot traffic, leaving it nice and fluffy.

Getting Started

There are a few things to consider before constructing your raised bed.  Make sure you select a level site that gets full sun, most fruits and vegetables require at least 6 hours of direct sun for optimum yield.  Raised beds should be made from rot resistant wood, like cedar or locust, avoid using pressure treated wood which can contain arsenic and other nasty chemicals. You can also use cinder blocks or stone to build your own beds. Construct your bed with a minimum height of 6” -12″ for Your raised bed should be no wider than 3’ – 4’ across, so that you can easily reach into the bed with ease.  Click Here for Raised Bed Gardening Products at Primex

Before adding your soil, you will need to prep the site.  If you are placing the bed on top of your lawn, you must either remove the sod or line your bed with landscape fabric to block grass and weeds from growing into your garden. It is also beneficial to use landscape fabric when placing your bed on top of concrete to keep the soil contained.

Once your bed is assembled you are ready to add your soil components.

• 4’ x 4’ (6” deep) will need 8 cubic feet of soil
• 4’ x 4’ (12” deep) will need 16 cubic feet of soil
• 4’ x 8’ (6” deep) will need 16 cubic feet of soil

• 4’ x 8’ (12” deep) will need 32 cubic feet of soil

For example: A bed which is 4’ x 8’ and 12” deep you will need

•  1 cubic yard of our mushroom compost enriched topsoil (Click here for bulk topsoil information)
•  2 bags of Bumper Crop (2 cu ft) to add organic matter to the mix

For the Elevated Garden Beds, a lighter potting mix is recommended. Try Organic Mechanic’s Container Blend which is rich in organic material and peat-free.

Finally, add a slow-release fertilizer at planting time to feed your growing vegetables, try Espoma Organic Garden-tone with beneficial microbes.  Adding these microbes is especially important when gardening in urban conditions because they are often lacking in disturbed soils.

Now the fun begins and you are ready to plant!

Intensive Planting Plan via Sally Mccabe at the Pennsylvania Horticulture Society

Gronomics Elevated Garden Beds at the Nationalities Senior Center in Philadelphia

With the terrarium “revival” there have come a lot of perks – I get to talk with all sorts of people interested in these mini gardens and hear about their own personal tricks for success, favorite plants and creative construction and decoration techniques. I’ve also had the opportunity to hear (and experience…) the little ecosystem dilemmas we can encounter while growing under glass. So I’ve compiled this list of common questions and issues in an effort to save beginners and experts alike the time of experimentation and share some tried and true solutions. (That being said, feel free to e-mail me with other questions about persisting issues or failed solutions. I’m super friendly, really: Elizabeth@primexgardencenter.com)

Q – Don’t I need a layer of gravel for drainage or something?

A – No. No you don’t. Gravel does not increase drainage in a terrarium (or anywhere else for that matter) and can actually make things worse. It’s a little surprising, but true. I won’t bore you too much with the science-y explanation. Put simply, water will not move easily from finer material like soil to a coarser material like gravel without fully saturating the soil first. Gravel’s just a big no-no, unless you like that layered look. In that case, go for it! Just know, it’s only for decorative purposes and not actually helping with drainage or anything.

Q – I think I overwatered! What do I dooo?!

A – First, if your terrarium is lidded, remove the lid for at least 24 hours. It’s also a good idea to move your terrarium into bright light to try to evaporate excess water. You can also roll up a bit of paper towel and make yourself a wick – one end goes into the soil medium and the other in the air. Your wick should absorb excess water and allow it to evaporate more quickly. Please don’t use a hairdryer. Your plants will be sad.

It’s not easy to reverse overwatering. I encourage you to err on the side of under-watering. You can always add more water, but you can’t as easily take it away. Allow the medium in your terrarium to lighten in color and give just enough water to moisten the areas around your plants. Plant’s roots need just as much air as they do water and overwatering essentially suffocates them and causes them to die and rot. Don’t overwater, ok?

Q – I have mold, fungus or some sort of fuzzy growth in the bottom of my terrarium. What is it, where did it come from and how do I make it go away?

A – Your new furry friend likely moved in when some organic material was left to rot on top of the soil. Be sure to remove spent flowers, dropped leaves and other organic material from the soil surface to inhibit this type of infestation. (And you’re probably overwatering. Quit it.)

Q – Oh, GROSS! I’ve got bugs in my terrarium!

A – Not exactly a question, but I get it. Finding bugs in your terrarium may be extremely annoying (as in the case of mealy bugs), only mildly irritating (say, spider mites) or actually, mostly harmless (fungus gnats). I recommend bringing in a sample to Primex and letting one of our staff identify the pests for you. We can give you advice on control and suggestions to prevent reoccurring infestations. In the case of fungus gnats … Hey, guess what? You’re Over-Watering. Quit it.

Terrarium created in our workshop featuring a plumosa fern.

Terrarium created in our workshop featuring a Kalanchoe.

Primex will be host site for the Lancaster Farm Fresh Cooperative CSA again this Spring/Summer 2012 season. 

Lancaster Farm Fresh Cooperative (LFFC) is a non-profit organic farmers cooperative of 75+ small-scale, 100% Certified Organic family farms in Lancaster County, PA. Why should you join a CSA (that’s Communtiy Supported Agriculture)? LFFC connects you directly with locally sourced organic produce each week through their CSA program. Your family will benefit from eating fresh organic produce, all while supporting local farming families. Each week you will receive a boxed share or half share of diverse vegetable varieties. You can expect to expand your veggie palate and save money vs. organic produce from the supermarket. You will also receive a ‘CSA Shopping List’ via email to let you know what to expect in your share each week, along with recipes and storage tips. All the fruits & vegetables are picked 24-48 hours before your receive them and are sourced from a 150 mile radius, now that’s fresh!

The 2012 Spring/Summer Vegetable Share Season begins in Mid-May and runs for 25 weeks through October

Click here to see what vegetables you can expect and to sign up!  Be sure to select Glenside as your pick-up site.

Full Vegetable Share: 7-12 Varieties Each Week

Perfect size for families and culinary enthusiasts who want to experience a wide variety of vegetables each week.

Half Vegetable Share: 4-9 Varieties Each Week

Perfect for small households, students or those who only cook a few times per week.

In addition to the vegetable shares, you can also sign up for a 22 week Fruit Share with 2-3 varieties each week.

Also available:  CSM – Community Supported Medicine – 2 – 3 varieties of fresh herbs or prepared products.  Delivered bi-weekly.

They also have a Co-op Store where you can order Organic Dairy, Eggs, Meat, Pantry Items, Gluten Free Products and much more!  You can order your products online to be delivered with your CSA share, talk about one stop shopping!  You do not need to be a CSA Member to purchase these items, so this is a great option for people who do not want to commit to the CSA.

We are looking forward to our 2nd CSA Season and Welcome Back Lancaster Farm Fresh, we can’t wait to receive our first box of veggies!  More details on pick-up day and times will be available soon.

Sunday, March 18th @ 1:00pm

This class is back by popular demand! Margie Robins, our own Orchid guru, will demystify the wonders of orchids. Margie will show you which types are easiest to grow in your home, along with some more challenging varieties for the adventurous. She will tell you how to encourage re-blooming by providing the correct environment with light, watering and fertilization. Margie will also demonstrate re-potting your orchid in the appropriate planting mix and some basic insect and disease controls.

Space is limited, please RSVP for this event by calling 215-887-7500

Increase your gardening knowledge in 2012 by attending our Winter/Spring Lecture Series.  We offer informative interactive classes taught by our knowledgeable staff and guest lecturers.  All classes run approximately 1 hour.  Space is limited and registration is required.  There is a $10 fee per class due at time of registration.  (**Unless otherwise noted & exempt from gift card.)  You must pay in advance.  A $5 Primex Gift Card will be issued to each paid registrant that attends the lecture.  Register in the store or by calling 215-887-7500

Click here for all 2012 Winter Workshops

Saturday, March 17th @ 10:00 am

Cheryl Wilkes is back to share her design savvy and will be coming to us after being a guest speaker at the 2012 Philadelphia Flower Show. Cheryl will teach you how to use live foliage and flowering plants in containers to create living centerpieces. She will show you exciting plant combinations that will enliven your home, office or to give as gifts. After the class, you will find inspiration in our greenhouse and from our new shipment of colorful pottery and planters.

Increase your gardening knowledge in 2012 by attending our Winter/Spring Lecture Series.  We offer informative interactive classes taught by our knowledgeable staff and guest lecturers.  All classes run approximately 1 hour.  Space is limited and registration is required.  There is a $10 fee per class due at time of registration.  (**Unless otherwise noted & exempt from gift card.)  You must pay in advance.  A $5 Primex Gift Card will be issued to each paid registrant that attends the lecture.  Register in the store or by calling 215-887-7500

Click here for all 2012 Winter Workshops

Organic Gardening – Saturday, March 17th @ 10:00 am

Our own Ron Kushner, Pennsylvania Certified Horticulturist and Master Gardener, will teach you how to garden the organic way. He will guide you through the basics of soil amending, composting, controlling insects and disease. Ron has been using raised beds at his own home for years to produce organic fruits and vegetables in abundance! Learn his methods for low-maintenance gardening, so you can sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor. He’s so into organic gardening, he even has his own website ronsorganicgarden.com.

Companion Planting – Saturday, March 17th @ 1:00 pm – This class in now FULL.

Ron is back to guide you through the organic gardening method of companion planting. Companion planting is the practice where plants are selected for their beneficial properties which work together to help your crops reach their full potential. Companion planting can help to reduce your use of pesticides, encourage beneficial insects, provide nutrients and increase vegetable yield and flavor, naturally. This class will cover the plants that you need in your garden to help repel insects and increase the soil’s fertility all through organic practices.

Increase your gardening knowledge in 2012 by attending our Winter/Spring Lecture Series.  We offer informative interactive classes taught by our knowledgeable staff and guest lecturers.  All classes run approximately 1 hour.  Space is limited and registration is required.  There is a $10 fee per class due at time of registration.  (**Unless otherwise noted & exempt from gift card.)  You must pay in advance.  A $5 Primex Gift Card will be issued to each paid registrant that attends the lecture.  Register in the store or by calling 215-887-7500

Click here for all 2012 Winter Workshops

It seems very fitting that the new USDA Hardiness Zone Map was released during this mild winter.  Most of us in the Greater Philadelphia region are now in zone 7a (previously 6b) and much of Philadelphia County is now in zone 7b (previously 7a). Remember that a hardiness zone measures the lowest temperatures for a region, so we know what plants will make it through the winter. So don’t go ahead and assume that our frost date will change drastically. Frost dates are not based on temperature alone; there are other influential factors like topography and proximity to bodies of water. The Farmer’s Almanac predicts (with a 50% probability) that our last frost date will be April 17^th 2012 here in Glenside, based on historical data.

This unseasonably mild winter (temperatures in the 60’s?!?) has given many of us an early case of spring fever. You may have noticed some of your spring bulbs beginning to pop and shrubs blooming well before their time. If plants begin to break bud or leaf out and we are hit with a cold snap in March, look out!  Late damaging frosts can kill tender new shoots, causing die back or even plant death (eek!). You can protect your evergreens with Wilt Stop, a barrier spray derived from pine, just be sure to use when the temperatures are above freezing. To protect your deciduous trees, shrubs or other tender plants; provide them with a temporary cover of burlap, Harvest Guard row cover or even an old sheet to provide a few degrees of protection. Do not use plastic sheeting which can damage your plants.

Pest populations will also be affected by our mild winter. Most common insects are adapted to survive our cold winters, so the problem isn’t in greater survival rates. The biggest issue is that insects will get a head start on the mating process, which means more generations of insects this year. We can expect to see increased populations of insects earlier in the season. So what can you do to protect your plants? Spray before bud break (i.e. now) with a horticultural oil to smother overwintering insects on your trees and shrubs. When planting your crops this season, protect them with Harvest Guard row cover to exclude hungry insects. Luckily, beneficial insects will also be in full force, so be sure to create a favorable environment for them. Flea, tick and mosquito populations are expected to be especially high this year. Keep your pets protected early and watch for ticks (a friend already found a tick this year!). Check your property for standing water and use Mosquito Dunks in your ponds and birdbaths.

Your best bet this year is to be observant! Scout your garden early to keep insects in check. Watch weather reports and protect your shrubs if a killing frost is predicted. But most of all enjoy the beautiful weather and stop to smell those early bloomers!

by Jennifer Hendricks – staff horticulturist

Creating your own home orchard can be a very rewarding experience; all it takes is a little planning and preparation. First you need to find a suitable location for your fruit trees; which prefer full sun, a nice breeze and well-drained soil. Fruit trees require a soil pH of 6.5 – 7.0 (with the exception of blueberries); bring a sample of your soil to have it tested, free of charge, before planting. Choosing a site with these characteristics will facilitate healthy growth and allow the tree’s leaves to dry quickly, which will help to prevent fungal diseases. Speaking of fungal diseases, they can be a common problem of fruit trees so be sure to select varieties that are more disease resistant. When selecting your fruit tree, also take note if they are self-pollinating or if they need cross pollination from another variety (read more about this subject here). If in doubt, read the tag. Our Hollybrook Orchards fruit trees include information on each variety, along with suitable cross-pollinators. Yes, this means you will have to buy more than one apple (or pear) tree, but variety creates diversity and adds to the spice of life, right?

Now that you’ve selected your fruit trees and the best site on your property, it’s time to get planting.  It’s best to get your trees into the ground in early spring or as soon as the ground can be worked, which means the ground is not frozen or water logged from the spring thaw. This will give the trees time to establish before the heat of summer sets in.

1. Remove your tree from its plastic pot and inspect the roots. Gently tease out the roots to encourage outward growth. If the roots are growing in a tight mass, use a knife to make several shallow vertical slits along the sides.
2. Dig the hole 2x as wide as and slightly shallower than the size of the root ball. When placed in the hole, the bud-union (the swollen portion of the trunk where the tree is grafted to its root stock) should be at least 2-3” above the soil surface.  Do not bury the trunk of the tree!
3. Plant. Before backfilling, replace 1/3 of the soil with an organic soil amendment (like compost) and mix well. Work the amended soil firmly around the root ball to remove any air pockets. Use any remaining soil to build a raised berm around the planting hole to form a water basin. Water thoroughly after planting, allow the water to seep deeply into the soil and water a second time. Mulch around the tree to conserve moisture, being sure to keep the mulch 2-3” away from the trunk.
4. Water the tree once a week during the growing season (especially if it hasn’t rained). The tree needs the equivalent of 1” of rainfall or roughly 5 gallons per week. Irrigate slowly to ensure the water percolates deep into the soil. During hot weather monitor for signs of wilting and water accordingly.
5. Fertilize the tree 3-4 weeks after planting with ½ cup 10-10-10 fertilizer or a slow-release organic fertilizer. Spread the fertilizer in a circumference 1 ½ – 2 feet away from the trunk and work lightly into the soil.

Following these recommendations will get you well on your way to orchard success. Be sure to monitor the tree for signs of pests and diseases throughout the growing season. If you find something out of the ordinary, bring us a leaf sample for diagnosis.  The Penn State Extension also has a wealth of information for home fruit orchards here.

WE ARE SOLD OUT OF TICKETS FOR THE 2012 PHILADELPHIA FLOWER SHOW

Primex is selling Philadelphia International Flower Show Tickets again this year at the discounted price of $25 for an adult ticket and $15 for children 16 and under. Pick up your tickets here to avoid the long lines at the show (and save $5 – $7 on admission at the door). This year’s flower show theme is Hawaii Island of Aloha, which has everyone thinking of warm sunny days on the beach and vibrant tropical flora. A wonderful escape from the grey days and cold winds of winter.

Proceeds from the Flower Show benefit the programs of the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society.  This year will support City Harvest, PHS’s innovative program which brings together urban farmers and community gardeners, who grow fresh produce for more than 1,000 families in need each week. The Flower Show will not only highlight the flora of Hawaii, it will also focus on growing your own vegetables.  One exhibit that we are looking forward to is a 40 foot long vertical gardening wall filled with lettuce, using several varieties for texture and color.  There will also be beds on display highlighting ornamental and innovative vegetable gardening techniques.

Need a little pick me up before March 4th? Our greenhouse is brimming with tropical plants to bring a little piece of paradise into your home.  Walk into our greenhouse and be welcomed by the exotic scents of orchids and the heady aroma of hyacinths. Take home an orchid and be rewarded with colorful blooms for the winter (we have many varieties to choose from!). Or take home some fresh and fragrant herbs for your windowsill.  Just close your eyes, take a deep breath and be transported to sunnier times.

Philadelphia International Flower Show 2012

Sunday, March 4 – Sunday, March 11, 2012

Place:        

Pennsylvania Convention Center

12th & Arch Streets

Philadelphia, PA 19107-2299

Hours:

Sunday, March 4; 8:00 am – 9:30 pm

Monday – Friday, March 5-9: 10:00 am – 9:30 pm

Saturday, March 10; 8:00 am – 9:30 pm

Sunday, March 11; 8:00 am – 6:00 pm