215-887-7500

Derby Day Celebration – Run for the Roses

20% Off All Roses

Sale Dates: Friday, May 3rd – Sunday, May 5th 2013. In-stock only.

Click here for additional sales

Derby Day Raffles

Saturday, May 4th

Choose the Winning Horse of the Kentucky Derby

Win a $25 Primex Gift Card!

You can enter the raffle inside the main store. Limit one per household.

Saturday, May 4th & Sunday, May 5th

Burley Clay Birdbath

Primex 70th Anniversary T-Shirt

Dovetail Artisans

$20 Gift Certificate

Visit this local Glenside gift shop for American handcrafted gifts for every occasion.

http://thedovetailartisans.com/

Ask the Experts

Saturday, May 4th

Organic Container Gardening

10:00am – 11:00am

Mark Highland, owner of Organic Mechanics and local soil expert, will teach you how to create beautiful container gardens organically.

Vegetable Gardening in Smart Pots

11:00am – 2:00pm

Marty will be here from High Caliper to demonstrate how to grow vegetables in any space, no matter how small, with minimal effort using Smart Pots. 10% Off Smart Pots Saturday Only

Gardening in Style

10:00am – 2:00pm

Kara from Angela’s Garden will be here to show you her stylish yet functional line of gloves and garden accessories for women and children. 10% Off Angela’s Garden Saturday Only

Nursery Spotlight

Carolina Silverbells – Halesia carolina is looking gorgeous this time of year. This native tree has loads of pendulous bell shaped flowers that dance in the wind. It is an understory tree has a broad, rounded crown and can reach 35′ in height. It prefers a a well drained, slightly acid soil in part shade, so it does well along a woodland border.

THE PASSIONATE GARDENER

May 2013

by Ron Kushner

May is the month to plant warm season vegetables, especially tomatoes. For many folks, gardening is all about tomatoes; great big, sweet, juicy fruit without a blemish to be found and not a yellow or spotted leaf showing anywhere on the plant! Here are some tips that may help you to grow “the perfect tomato”:

Bury your plants deeper than they come in the pot, all the way up to a few top leaves. Dig a deeper hole or lay the plant horizontally with only the top leaves sticking out of the soil. Don’t worry, it will grow straight up.

Tomatoes need a temperature range of 70 to 85 degrees F. Do not rush to get your plants in the garden too early. If temperatures drop below 55 degrees at night you could be in trouble. Also, temperatures over 85 degrees (like last July) will cause your plants not to fruit.

Make sure you have nectar-rich flowers nearby to attract pollinators. No pollination, no fruit!

Fertilize only when you set the plants out and again as they begin to form fruit. Too much nitrogen and again, you are in trouble.

Add a handful of gypsum to each planting hole. It will provide needed calcium without raising the pH and is especially useful when growing tomatoes in containers.

The humidity range needs to be 40 to 70% or it will interfere with the release of pollen and prevent fruit from forming. There is not much that can be done about the humidity.

Water deeply but only once a week during dry weather. Tomatoes have deep roots and shallow watering every day or two will stress and weaken plants.

Once the plants are three feet tall, remove any bottom leaves near the soil. Do not “pinch” or prune suckers. Most gardening directions and guidebooks tell you to do this but as the plants fill out it can cause more harm than good.

Provide adequate support so that the plants don’t creep along the ground. Tomato cages, ladders, fencing, towers, etc. are all good. Tie up the vines with thick twine, velcro or vinyl strips.

Control insects organically by growing companion plants such as parsley, dill, borage, onions, chives or basil nearby.

Bees

There are 40,000 species of bees worldwide. North America hosts 3,500 species while 700 species live in Pennsylvania. PA bees include carpenter bees, bumble bees, honey bees, digger bees, cuckoo bees, leaf cutter bees and mason bees to name just a few. It is interesting to note that out of the 40,000 species worldwide, only seven are honeybees. The United States has only one species of honey bee and it is not native. They were imported in the 1600′s for crop pollination. The rest of the bees in our gardens are native.

All bees are vegetarians and most are great pollinators and attracted by a wide variety of flowering plants. They are continually gathering pollen that they line their nests with and lay their eggs in.

Bumble bees are major pollinators of tomato, eggplant, peppers, melons and many other crops. They are the only known pollinators of potatoes! Attract them by planting a diversity of flowers and herbs. Lemon balm, bee balm, fennel, tansy and agastache are some excellent “bee magnets”.

For lawn care this month:

Apply fertilization. A weed and feed product can be used if desired, as long as seeding has not been done recently. On lawns with a history of fungus trouble, a fungicide application can be made now. May through mid-June is the time to apply “Season-Long” grub control. Continue mowing and make sure your blades are sharp. This is also a good time for core aeration.

For questions or comments: ron@primexgardencenter.com   www.ronsorganicgarden.com

We all love annual Impatiens for their carefree nature, quickly spreading habit and burst of color that they add to our shade gardens.  Impatiens season is almost upon us and we have received many questions about the blight that is affecting Impatiens walleriana or bedding impatiens.  We first encountered the dreaded downy mildew last year when customers began bringing us samples of their dying Impatiens.

Symptoms of downy mildew start with light stippling and yellowing of the leaves.  The leaves will begin to droop, as if they need more water, and when you check the undersides of the leaves you will notice the white, downy growth of spores.  As the disease progresses, the leaves will turn completely yellow and drop, leaving just the bare stems.  The entire plant will eventually collapse, what a sad sight!  Many of us saw the drooping leaves as a signal to water more, which only makes matters worse, since downy mildew thrives in moist conditions.

Downy mildew is a fungal-like pathogen which is spread through the release of spores.  These spores can turn up in the greenhouse from infected transplants or can blow in from neighboring yards.  Once your plants are infected, the spores will travel quickly through plantings via splashing water.  Downy mildew will overwinter in infected impatiens debris, so it is very important that you clean your beds…especially if you experienced the symptoms last year.  There is very little that you can do to prevent downy mildew and once your plants are infected, there is no reversing the progress of the disease.  Retail fungicides cannot offer complete disease protection, and impatiens have been showing resistance to commercially available products. Diseased plants should be removed and disposed of in a plastic bag, do not put them in your compost pile.

What are homeowners to do?  We are recommending to refrain from planting bedding impatiens this year.  Luckily the disease is specific to only Impatiens walleriana species and wild impatiens may be affected, like Jewelweed (which is a whole other concern for migrating butterflies and birds which depend on its nectar).  Our suppliers will only be growing a limited number of flats this year, so they will also be very hard to come by.

Other Options for the Shade Garden:

New Guinea Impatiens offer a mounding habit, deep green to burgundy foliage and bright flowers similar to bedding impatiens.

Begonias come in a multitude of shapes and colors.  Bedding or wax begonias are an inexpensive way to fill your shade beds.  Dragon wing, Bonfire or Rex begonias offer interesting foliage and flower combinations for a little excitement in the shade.

Coleus are available in so many striking color combinations these days!  Try the new Under the Sea varieties for an ocean of coral reef texture and gorgeous color.

Torenia (foreground) also called monkey or clown flower, provides the shade garden with a carpet of flowers in varying colors from yellow to purple to blue.

Caladium provide the shade garden with a burst of color, patterns and texture with a nice upright and mounding habit.

Bumper Crop Veggie Fest

Join us on Saturday, April 20th from 10am to 3pm.

The experts from Coast of Maine will be on hand to answer your vegetable gardening questions between 10:00am – 3:00pm

Bring the kids for make & take a seed planting activity at 11:00am.

Learn how to plant vegetables in a raised garden bed at 1:00pm with Bumper Crop Organic Soil Amendment

Raffles:

Kids’ Only:  Enter to win one of 2 – $25 Primex Gift Cards to buy their own gardening tools and plants.  

Anne’s Kitchen Table - $25 Gift Certificate

(215) 576-1274

11 Wesley Avenue, Glenside, PA 19038

Gronomics Rustic Raised Bed 

Red Cedar Bed – 48″x48″ – Made in the USA – Retail Value: $95.00

THE PASSIONATE GARDENER

April 2013

by Ron Kushner

Spring at last! This is surely a wonderful time to be in the garden. So much promise of things to come, spectacular color from spring blooming bulbs, plants leafing out and oh, so much to do! Where do we begin?

If not done already, all of last year’s dead, brown stems and leaves can be cut away. Weeds are sprouting and our removal process begins (and continues all season). Be especially attentive to your watering. Even so-called “xeric” plants need water when planted throughout their first year until they are mature with a well developed root system.

Mulch can be added this month to all beds, shrubs and trees. Shredded leaves provide wonderful mulch, if available. Two to four inches deep is all that is needed. Keep the mulch from actually touching stems and trunks. Make sure to remove left over leaves, stems and other debris from under plants prior to installing mulch. Also, fertilizer can be added at this time prior to mulching.

Apply corn gluten meal to your lawn for organic control of weeds and to add some nitrogen. Pre-emergence herbicides may be applied to prevent crabgrass for lawns that are not being maintained organically. Mowing should begin this month and late April through May is time for biological control of grubs.

Fertilize roses once new growth is showing. Also, don’t forget liquid fish fertilizer on veggie seedlings twice a week.

Crape myrtles leaf out late. Don’t worry if you don’t see new leaves forming. It could be May 1st before new growth is visible.

Plant an asparagus bed. This can be done either in the ground or better yet, in raised beds. A minimum space of three feet by eight feet can provide plenty of spears for two people. Full sun is best. Remove weeds and add lots of compost and fertilize. Add lime if the pH is below 6.0 – 7.0.

Buy crowns and plant one foot deep and eighteen inches apart in all directions. If planting into the ground, leave a wide space between rows for walking and harvesting. Cover the crowns with two to three inches of soil and continue to fill in the hole as the spears grow.

Keep the new bed watered. After the first year, water is no longer required. The only additional irrigation my bed gets is from a nearby rain barrel during periods of drought.

Don’t harvest any spears the first year. In the second year, harvest a few of the thicker spears here and there. In the third year you can harvest all of the spears that are not too thin and spindly. June 1st is the end of the harvest period regardless of how old the bed is.

Cut down the fern-like growth to the ground in late fall or early winter once they turn yellow. The entire bed can then be mulched with compost, shredded leaves or manure for the winter.

Potatoes are perhaps the easiest vegetables to grow, whether in the ground, a raised bed or practically any size container. They require very little care to produce a decent size crop. Potatoes like a more acid soil (pH between 5.5 and 6.5), well drained with plenty of compost and a little bone meal. The soil temperature should be at least 50 degrees F. prior to planting. Use seed potatoes that are certified “disease-free”. Cut the potatoes so that each piece has at least two “eyes”. It is not a bad idea to dust the pieces with some sulfur in a paper bag to discourage fungi. Plant each piece in a hole about eight inches deep and eight inches apart. Cover with a few inches of soil, mounding the soil up over the stems to just below the top leaves until the holes are full. Water only when the weather is extremely dry (more often if growing in a container).

Once the plants flower, “new” potatoes can be dug up. These are simply tiny potatoes not yet mature. After the foliage dies back completely, all can be harvested. The sweet, rich taste of home-grown potatoes is quite a treat and very different from store bought, commercial varieties.

For questions or comments: ron@primexgardencenter.com

General Orchid Care

Growing habit:

Epiphyte – grows on tree deriving moisture and nutrients from air or debris.

Semi-terrestrial – grows in leaf litter or rotting wood near the ground, not in trees.

Terrestrial – grows in the ground (vast majority of temperate region plants).

Light Requirements:  

Light equals energy.   Energy equals flowers.

Ideal light ranges from high light to low light.

Intensity of light varies from season to season.  Most orchids will need to be resituated November and March.  Several genera of orchids need to be moved outside in the summer in order to receive sufficient light for flowering to follow in winter.

When moving any orchid outside allow time for leaves to adjust to increased light.  Start in shade and gradually increase light to ideal intensity.  This may take several weeks.

Temperature:

Most orchids that are grown as houseplants are tropical or sub-tropical, which means they will not survive our winters outdoors.  Within these groupings, orchids are grouped into warm growing, cool growing and intermediate.  Orchids will not thrive and bloom outside their optimum temperature range.  Stray too far and the orchid will perish.

Humidity & Air Circulation: 

All orchids need increased humidity in the home.  Most orchids thrive in the 60-80% range.  Additional humidity can be supplied in the form of a humidifier, humidity tray and morning spritzing.  (I do all three.)

Media:

Orchid media must supply air as well as water and nutrients around the orchid roots.    

Special Orchid Mix: ideal for most orchids with large roots that need to dry between waterings.

Fine Bark Orchid Mix: same mix only smaller size, ideal for orchids with finer roots.

Fine Bark Orchid Mix w/ 20% Coco Coir chip: more moisture retentive, ideal for Phal. and Paph.

Sphagnum Moss long fiber: is an excellent media but needs to be changed every six – eight months. Works well as a nurse media for struggling orchids.

Fertilizer:

All orchids need additional fertilization in order to thrive and produce flowers.

Use a urea free formulation for orchids, with micronutrients, with boron at .02%.

More frequently during growing season (summer) less often during blooming season (fall and winter).

Always flush with clear water frequently.

Pests:

Snail, Slugs and Potato Bugs probably my biggest pest.  Use Sluggo Plus from the time the orchid moves outside till when it is brought in.

Ants often move into an orchid pot and can cause plant death if left unattended.  Soaking the pot can cause the ants to leave permanently.  If not, use an insecticide for ants that will not harm the orchid (Bayer TripleAction Ant Killer.)

Fungus gnats are a symptom the media is broken down or the plant is overwatered.  Reduce watering and use mosquito bits.

Bud Blast is usually caused by cold temperatures or too low humidity.

Flower Thrips can ruin flowers quickly.  Use Orthene first, wait three days then use Jack’s Dead Bug, repeating the Jack’s  every three days for two weeks.

Scale and mealybugs are extremely difficult to eradicate.  Discard plant or use Orthene and Jack’s Dead Bug as recommended above.

Mites are a sign the orchid has been too dry.  Use insecticidal soap regularly, increase humidity and rinse leaves frequently.

Repotting should be done on a regular basis based on the type of media and the type of orchid. The most common cause of orchid death is root rot.

Plant it high.  Be sure where the roots meet the plant is level or above the media.

Soak media before using.

Don’t leave air spaces.

Don’t bang the pot to shake down the media.

Increase watering for the first two weeks. For example, instead of once a week increase it to every 4 days.

Troubleshooting:

Wrinkled leaves and/or wrinkled new-growth-pseudobulbs indicate the plant top is not receiving sufficient water from the roots. Often the cause is root rot from the media breaking down or over watering.  If this is not the case, then the cause may be lack of water, in which case, a good soaking should remedy the wrinkling in few days.

Root Rot symptoms include black or dead roots and/or black on stems near roots.   Recovery for an orchid with root rot is dependent on the extent of the damage.  If more than half the roots are dead there is very little chance of recovery within a few years if at all.  If the black has spread into the stems of the orchid there is little chance of survival and the orchid should be discarded.

Lack of flowering may be caused by several factors depending on the type of orchid.

Orchids that flower in the winter months often initiate flowering based on longer and cooler nighttime.  If growing under lights, decrease the time of the light exposure to match the period of darkness.  Allow the orchid to chill a bit before bringing inside.  Pay attention to temperature and do not push the envelope.

Overuse of fertilizer, especially with Cattleyas can suppress flowering.  However too little fertilizer will reduce plant vigor and result in no energy to produce flowers.

Margie Robins 3/2013

You can contact Margie or sign up for her seasonal Orchid Post newsletter at margie@primexgardencenter.com

Primex is proud to be a host site for the Lancaster Farm Fresh Co-op CSA (that’s community supported agriculture) for the 3rd year in a row!  You can sign-up for the Spring/Summer CSA via http://lancasterfarmfresh.csasignup.com/members/types

Deliveries will begin the week of May 6th.  The seasons ends October 21st for a total of 25 weeks of LOCAL, CERTIFIED ORGANIC, SMALL FARM GROWN, DELICIOUS VEGGIES!  Be sure to choose Glenside if you want Primex as your pick-up site.

Why should you choose Lancaster Farm Fresh?

Our produce is more delicious than you can find in most stores for two reasons – the Certified Organic methods we practice, and the quickness in which we deliver the produce to you.  Why is organic more flavorful?  Because when plants defend themselves from pests and climate (rather than depend on chemicals) they develop strong immunities – which translate into a robust array of vitamins and minerals.  Those nutrients, once a plant is harvested, slowly diminish.  Since we deliver the produce within a day or so of harvest, the nutrients will be at their peak availability.

Our farmers take deep pride in the quality of vegetables they grow, raising each crop with meticulous attention and thirst to refine their cultivation techniques.  We strive to provide the best value of Certified Organic vegetables available in every share.

FULL SHARE (9-12 varieties weekly): If you want to experience the great diversity of vegetables available in the Mid-Atlantic region this is the share type for you.  We love growing and experimenting with a healthy dose of unique and heirloom varieties.  We hope that you are equally as enthusiastic.  But don’t be mistaken, the cooking staples like onions, garlic, zucchini and tomatoes are just as exciting to us and will be provided in abundance.  The full veggie share is suitable for couples with a diet centered on vegetables for every meal, families (4-6 people) who use veggies as a side dish with meals and/or motivated culinary enthusiasts.

HALF SHARE (4-7 varieties weekly): This share is built to strike a balance for those who typically cook two to four times a week and prefer the traditional kitchen staples.  The Half Share delivers fewer varieties of vegetables weekly, but includes the same quanitity per vegetable variety as a Full Share.  Each week brings quality produce including Lettuce, Cabbage, Onions, Beets, Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Potatoes and more. Our half veggie share is suitable for singles, small families (2-3 people) for veggie side dishes, students, and/or new culinary enthusiasts.

Greetings and happy spring to all!

Ahh…  Where to begin. “Let’s start at the very beginning, that’s a very good place to start” as Julie Andrews once sang.  2013 marks our 70th year in business here in Glenside. It was 1943 when my grandfather bought Mcaughey Feed and Coal Company and started Primex. When you come in, take time to look at the historical photos on display. They are truly fun.

We have continued to make changes over the winter to make your visit more pleasurable. We extended our perennial greenhouse to provide shade for tender vegetables and shade loving plants. Our gift department has a new floor that has made such a difference, wow.  From local artists to fair trade wood carvings, very cool new bird houses and recycled patio mats, we’re always on the lookout for that perfect garden accent. And don’t forget to introduce your children or grandchildren to gardening. Our selection of kid’s tools and new miniature fairy gardening items continues to expand.

Once again we are thrilled to welcome back so many of our long term staff members and some new faces too. We are so fortunate to have such friendly knowledgeable folks who can’t wait to share their enthusiasm for gardening with you.

Why do we all love spring?  Is it just the anticipation of being outside after a cold winter? Hearing the birds, or wind through the leaves or just communing with nature.

What is it about gardening? Is it flowering bulbs popping their heads up out of the ground on those early spring mornings? The look of a new mowed lawn or the sense of accomplishment after you’ve just weeded and mulched your ornamental beds? How ’bout the smells of beautiful magnolia or the gorgeous colors that abound in our landscape.

What about growing your own herbs or imagining the flavor of that first tomato you’ll pick from your garden this summer? Maybe it’s just being outside with our families simply enjoying time together.

We invite you to join us and experience the joy of gardening. Come see what we have to offer in our uniquely stocked garden center, greenhouse and nursery. If you are an experienced gardener or first timer, we just can’t wait to see you this spring!  Come join our family. Take time to garden, we hope you’ll learn to love it too.  And please be sure to visit our website and Facebook for upcoming events this season, we have lots of fun in store.

David Green

Organic Lawn Care

Benefits of Organic Lawn Care:

Organic lawn care focuses on growing a healthy lawn because a healthy lawn is the best protection against weeds, insects and diseases. To have a healthy lawn, you need a healthy soil. Healthy soils are crumbly, brown, and alive with earthworms and beneficial microbes. Healthy soils let grass roots grow deep, making them more resistant to drought and stress. To have a healthy soil, you need to avoid the use of pesticides and synthetic fertilizers. One of the keys is to feed your lawn with natural and organic fertilizers that not only help to grow a beautiful, green lawn, but also one that is safe for kids and pets.

• Safe for Kids, Pets & the Environment
• Won’t burn lawns or leach out of soil
• Provides long lasting nutrition
• Creates healthy lawns & soil
• Requires less frequent mowing

Lawn Care Tips:

Watering
Water Reguarly. Watering should be a regular part of your lawn maintenance, especially during hot weather. Frequency depends on many variables, including grass and soil type, (i.e., sand vs. clay), and the amount of natural rainfall. Water Thoroughly. Water with about one inch of water when it begins to wilt in the spring. Deep watering encourages deeper rooting, making your lawn less susceptible to root-pruning insects and diseases. During the summer, watering should be light and frequent. Water Early. The best time to water your lawn is early morning when evaporation losses are low and leaves dry quickly. Evening watering does not allow time for the leaves to dry and makes your lawn more susceptible to diseases. Never apply water faster than the soil can absorb it.

Mowing
Keep Mower Blades Sharp. Avoid ripping the grass to reduce the chance of disease. No Buzz Cuts. Resist the urge to cut your grass too short. Taller
grass helps suppress weeds. Always leave it at about 3 – 3 ½” high. Cut often enough so you never remove more than 1/3 of its total height. With organics you will mow less. Leave Grass Clippings. Use a mulching mower to return clippings to the lawn. They provide up to 30% of a lawn’s yearly nutritional needs. Properly mowed lawns should not have thatch or clumps of clippings. The use of organic fertilizers helps to prevent the
build-up of thatch.

Soil pH.
Most lawns prefer a neutral soil pH range of 6.5 – 7. Outside of that range, your lawn won’t utilize the nutrients in the soil. Primex will check the pH of your soil free of charge. Simply bring us DRY soil sample (about a half cup) dug from 3″ below the surface, one from your front yard and one from your back will suffice. If the pH is too low, your soil is acidic and you will need to add lime. If the pH is too high, your soil is too alkaline and you will need to add a product containing sulfur.

Watch this Video:  Espoma: How to Grow an Organic Lawn

Espoma is the first company to provide customers with a 4-Step Organic Lawn Program and has been the organic industry leader since 1929! Primex is proud to carry the Espoma brand for organic gardening.  Please contact us for more information about this new 4-step program.  215-887-7500 or info@primexgardencenter.com

Espoma is the leading organic fertilizer company, since 1929.

THE PASSIONATE GARDENER

March 2013

by Ron Kushner

As the weather warms up, so does our need to be working in the soil. Starting too early is really a mistake. The soil could still be saturated and it is easily compacted at this time. To tell if the soil is ready to be worked, simply pick up a handful and squeeze it into a ball. Poke it with your finger or drop it to the ground from a height of three or four feet. If it shatters, it’s ready to be worked. If it keeps its shape or breaks into large clumps it needs to dry out more.

As soon as the soil can be worked efficiently, usually by mid March, it is time to plant peas, radishes, spring greens, lettuce Pak Choi, corn salad (mache) and other early vegetables. If you started seed inside, your young seedlings should be ready to put in the ground. Make sure to harden them off first. “Hardening off” is simply moving the seedlings outside to a sheltered spot where they can get used to cold wind and stronger sun. Bring the plants back indoors at night for a few days, especially if the nights are cold. Three days to a week is generally enough time before planting them into the garden.

Seeds can also be started directly in the garden now. Peas are the first to be planted in my garden every year, usually around St. Patrick’s day. The seeds tolerate frost and the plants generally mature before it gets too hot (last year was an exception as it got hot really early).

Onion sets can also be planted now. Although you could start onions from seed, planting sets is the easiest way to insure a good crop. Onion “sets” are tiny, immature bulbs that have been harvested and dried. If you can’t plant your sets right away, they will keep for a few weeks with no care.

Uncover shrubs, fig trees and other plants that were covered or wrapped with winter protection.

Apply fertilizer to beds, shrubs and young trees. For vegetable seedlings, an application of liquid fish fertilizer twice a week is ideal. Bulbs should be fertilized as soon as the tips are showing four to five inches. Fertilize them again as soon as the flowers are spent.

Time to start spring cleaning in the garden. Remove fallen debris, sticks, spent stems and fallen leaves. Check your plants to see if any have heaved out of the ground leaving some roots exposed. If so, simply re-bury the roots and firm the soil around the plant.

Avoid adding mulch at this early date. The ground needs to warm up and additional mulch will tend to keep the soil cool.

Buy a soil thermometer. 50 degrees F. signals a time to plant many early crops, especially potatoes.

Cut back herbs such as oregano, chives, tansy and others showing brown, dead stalks. Plant cool weather herb seeds such as dill, chervil, fennel and cilantro. Plant parsley plants. Seed takes way too long and won’t allow a harvest until late in the season. Once planted, however, it should “self-sow” with new plants formed each spring.

March is the month to prune your roses. By now, you should see buds beginning to swell and some even showing their first leaves. Always cut each cane at an angle with the dormant bud near the top of the angle (1/4″ is good). Any canes with unusual discoloration or weird looking blotches should be removed. Also, if a cane is shriveled instead of firm and smooth or if it snaps easily when bent, cut it off. As in all pruning, weak, spindly canes or crossing branches should be removed. Do not be afraid to prune away up to one-third of the plant; it will fill out and produce plenty of new growth as the season progresses.

For questions or comments:  Or stop in to see Ron at Primex or email ron@primexgardencenter.com   www.ronsorganicgarden.com